Home / Guides / Denim Sample Inspection: A Checklist for Wholesale Buyers
Denim Sample Inspection: A Checklist for Wholesale Buyers
A practical sample inspection checklist for denim buyers: fit, measurements, fabric, wash, stitching, hardware and labels, before bulk approval.
The sample is the last point at which a buyer can change a denim order without paying for the change in bulk. A sample that is approved quickly, without a structured check, is one of the most common causes of returns and rework later. A sample that is inspected carefully, against a written specification, gives the buyer a clear reference for the bulk lot. This article sets out a checklist that a wholesale buyer can use for every denim sample, from the first fit sample to the pre-production approval. It is written for teams that do not have an in-house quality department, and it can be used by a single buyer or by a small group.
Before the sample arrives
The inspection starts before the sample is in hand. The buyer should have a complete specification sheet, with the measurement points, the fabric, the wash, the trims, the labels and the packaging. The sample should be checked against that sheet, not against a memory of the design. If the sheet is incomplete, the buyer should complete it before the sample is measured, because a sample can only be approved against a standard that is written down.
The buyer should also set the inspection environment. Measurements should be taken on a flat surface with a steel or fiberglass tape. Colour should be checked in daylight and under the lighting the store uses. The fit should be checked on a fit model where possible, and the model's measurements should be recorded.
Step 1: Check the measurements
- Waist, hip, seat and thigh measured at the points listed in the specification sheet.
- Rise, both front and back, measured from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband.
- Knee and hem width measured at the points shown in the sheet.
- Inseam and outseam measured along the seam, not along the fold.
- Each measurement compared with the tolerance agreed in writing.
Record each measurement in a table next to the specification. A measurement that is outside tolerance should be marked, with the amount of the difference and the point where it occurs. A list of marked points is more useful to the factory than a general comment that the fit is wrong.
Step 2: Check the fit on the body
Measurements describe the garment on a table. Fit describes how it sits on a body. Check the seat from the back for smoothness and pocket placement, the front rise for comfort when sitting, and the thigh and knee for pulling or bagging. Check the hem length with the intended shoe. Ask the fit model to walk, sit and bend, because the garment will be judged on those movements, not only standing still.
Step 3: Check the fabric and the wash
- Fabric weight and hand feel compared with the approved fabric sample.
- Colour compared with the approved wash, under daylight and store lighting.
- Any finish, such as a rinse, raw hem or distressed effect, compared with the approved sample and the agreed variation range.
- Stretch and recovery checked by pulling the fabric and by observing the garment after a short wear period.
Where the fabric has been washed for the sample, ask for the wash test result. A sample that has not been washed does not show how the fabric will behave after the first wash.
Step 4: Check the stitching and construction
- Stitch density and stitch type matched to the specification.
- Seams straight, with no puckering or open stitching at stress points such as the crotch, the back pocket and the belt loops.
- Pocket corners reinforced where the specification requires it.
- Hem finish, including the chain stitch or the overlock, as approved.
- Thread color matched to the approved sample.
Step 5: Check the hardware and trims
Buttons, rivets, zips, belt loops and labels should be checked for function and appearance. A zip should run smoothly from top to bottom and close without snagging. Rivets should sit flat and should not show sharp edges. Hardware finish, such as a coated or plated surface, should match the approved sample and should be checked for color change after washing. Any hardware that is changed after approval should be treated as a specification change.
Step 6: Check the labels and packaging
Every label should be checked for text, position and attachment. The size label, the care label, the fiber content and any compliance text must match the approved artwork and the requirements of the target market. Check that the label is attached in the position shown in the specification, and that it is secure after a wash test. Check the packaging for the approved folding format, polybag size and carton marking. A packaging error that is found at the warehouse is much more expensive to fix than one found at the sample stage.
Step 7: Record the result and approve in writing
Write down the result of the inspection in one place. Each point should be marked as approved, approved with a comment, or not approved. A sample that is not approved should be returned to the factory with a list of changes and a request for a revised sample. A sample that is approved should be signed by the buyer, with the date and the version of the specification it matches. The signed sample becomes the reference for the bulk lot, so it should be stored safely and shared with the factory.
Step 8: Compare the bulk lot with the approved sample
A pre-production sample from the bulk lot should be compared with the approved sample before shipment. The comparison should cover the fit, the wash, the labels and the packaging. Where the bulk lot differs from the approved sample, the buyer should record the difference and agree a remedy in writing before the goods leave the factory. Inspection points and the inspection process for the bulk lot are to be confirmed in writing as part of the order terms.
A note on local sourcing
Buyers who search for a manufacturer nearby often assume that inspection will be easier. Physical distance helps with visits, but it does not replace a written specification and a documented approval process. The same checklist applies whether the factory is near or far. The quality of the process matters more than the location.
Summary for the buyer
Inspect the sample against a written specification, measure every point that matters, check the fit on a body, and approve in writing. Compare the bulk lot with the approved sample before shipment. The checklist does not replace experience, but it makes the decision repeatable. Inspection points, tolerances and the inspection process are to be confirmed in writing for each order.